two tree treehouse plans

Then put the first (right-most) joist on the beams, and make sure it is square (vertical) to one of the beams. So the first beams were cut with a hand saw plus a sanding block to square them. In the diagram below, two further beams are bolted to the nearest support and are allowed to slide on metal plates fitted to the right hand support. You can see what other people made here in instructables, in youtube and in some sites for general DIY (diychatroom.com, and finehomebuilding are two sites I got some ideas and posted some questions). After putting the ply sheets at place, I attached them with 4x35mm screws. Plans come complete with support options to build on posts, so you have the choice to use two trees, one tree (with posts) or no trees (all posts). This way you calculate how high you need to make the holes for the bolts. The length of the supports is calculated so that the top of the ridge board is 651mm above the walls (H=651). This is the time to check that it is rock steady and not making any noise as you walk. I just used some 3mm screws to temporarilly attach the ply on the inside of the walls, marked where the openings will be for door&windows and also the top end of the sheathing. Reply Use two long clamps to secure the joist on the beams and attach it with a joist hanger (the black metal strip shown in the picture) and 8x40mm lag bolts. Surprisingly, the main window was the most time consuming part of the whole project. Then, nail the boards temporarily on the trees, so that you can get them off and on easily but not too loosely so that they fall off on their own. Eventually, I had to climb on the roof to place all the screws. Then, place them on the anchor points again and temporarilly secure them with two short 8mm lag bolts per bracket. Don't forget to round all sharp corners of the frame and the trapdoor before sanding/painting. After finishing this step, you can climb on the platform and walk around stepping on the joists. Joining all the frames, I get a "box" measuring 2.16m front&back, 1.6m sides and 1.6m high. I cut the edge of the ply with the same angle as the roof (26.6 degrees) and applied a light clear coating. The floor joists are 50x150mm boards (2"x6") - there are 6 joists each one 2.1m (7 ft) long. Movement is accepted at the right hand tree. Also, at that hight the tree on the right hand was less tilted. The bottom plank of each wall will need to go about 40mm lower than the bottom plates of the frame so that it will cover the sides of the floor planks. Last, I mounted the rafters on the walls with 8x140mm lag bolts (1 bolt per rafter), and on the ridge board with long 6mm screws (2 screws per rafter). You can get away with much less if you have access to cheap wood. Knee braces can provide support for heavier treehouses than the plywood, and for less money than equivalent metal brackets. The bottom of the boards needs to be at the hight you want your bolts. Stops may be fitted to the right hand bracket to prevent the sliding beams slipping off the end, but in any event there should always be enough length on the beam to accommodate this. For each frame, I glued together 4 pieces of ply with half lap joints made on the router table. My boards were a little scewed so I just clamped them straight before fixing the joist hanger (3d photo). The top plates of the side walls were made of thicker boards, so that they hold an extended roof overhang (60cm or 2") without the need of knee braces. Router. The overhang will cover most of the deck. I also put some nails to keep the wire extension from sliding down. All up weight is 450Kg (1000 pounds). From the initial 3D sketch-just a box between the trees on a 2D picture of the site- until the final model containing every little piece of wood. The floor and its sliding mechanism work in the same way as above, but braces are used to hold up the end of the main support beams instead of the plywood. Typically, a tree house is supported (in addition to anchor points) with "knee braces" i.e. After arranging the TG planks to create an opening, I placed the horizontal boards at the edges of the openings, thus completing the wall frame of the previous step (see 2nd pic). It is relatively small & light compared to what you will find in the internet. First thing to do is collect from the internet and read as much material as you can. Before placing the interior sheathing, I put some black and red pairs of wires that will be hidden inside the walls. So you need to pick a main beam for reference and square all the joists with that one. The technique is exactly the same as the trapdoor of step 10. The total cost was 1,600 Eur including materials not used or purchased by mistake but excluding any tool. Last install the 5 components listed above in the order shown in the 2nd picture. These are cheap and can be adapted to different angles and heights. For the wall siding I used 14mm thick T&G planks and nailed them on the frame with two 2x40mm nails on every junction with the frame boards. The actual dimensions of the boards I selected for rafters were 45x95mm, so a=95, (b) The overhang of the roof. This is an awesome project. Drill, with a set of common wood bits, a hole saw bit and some long bits for wood. Put six lag bolts on every joist hanger - 3 on the joist and 3 on the beam. I left for the moment all the horizontal boards for the door and window frames, and put them later while placing the exterior siding (next step). Flexible joints are required but movement is much more predictable than systems involving more trees, and you will be able to build a larger floor space than using only one tree. The outer diameter is not critical - just make it so that it matches the OD of a hole saw that you already have. Improve your rough sketches using the actual dimensions of the wood pieces you are planning to use. Starting with the deck floor, I first calculated to 12mm the needed gap between the planks so they can be spaced evenly across the deck without the need for an odd (rip cut) plank. In the diagram below, two further beams are bolted to the … Make sure that they are straight and square or the whole step will end with a poor result. Using a short piece of metal rod and the hammer, I pushed the nail heads a little inside the planks so that they can be covered with wood filler and not be visible. The custom washers are needed to provide additional support to the unthreaded part of the lag bolt. Once you set up this frame, fill in the floor with 2x4 joists. The anchoring components towards the side of the platform, bottom to top (as seen in the 2nd pic): The anchoring components towards the side of the tree, are shown in the 3d pic, and they are the same as those used in step 4, except for the thick custom made washer which we don't need here as the lag bolt will protrude just a little. You need a jig for cross cuts/ miter cuts plus a long 2.5m jig for ripping plywood boards (the standard size here is 2.5 x 1.25 meters). Then I drilled the center of the shallow hole all the way to the other side with a 5mm bit. See the knee braces page for more information. Most of them will be finished in the coming weeks - the roof shingles may have to wait until next spring, depending on how early the winter comes this year. All boards and planks are swedish pine, as it is broadly used here for porches/shelters and it is cheap. These arms can then be used as in the above diagram to form a framework that slides. The last pic shows how the back wall and the side wall join and the overlapping pattern of the wall siding. I had to do and re-do things a number of times as there are many parts that need an alignment as close as possible to prefection. The input values for the calculations are (all symbols are described in the first pic): After writing down all the other values derived from the input values, I cross cut the 19x145mm board that will make the ridge board and I made two supports to hold it up. I can't stress enough how helping was the 3D modelling of the treehouse. You need to find the sweet spot where the steel wire is just about to lift the platform, not too slack but not releasing the weight from the main anchor points of step4. The inner diameter must equal the thickness of the lag bolt. Thus, I came with the idea to diagonally support the platform from above using steel wire (see 1st pic). At the same time you need the lag bolt to be deep enough in the tree so it holds well (theory goes that you need a penetration of at least 8 times the diameter of the lag bolt) taking into account how soft the bark of the tree is.

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